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2021年秋季時裝週回顧

在觀眾稀少且日程安排與時裝週常規相去甚遠的情況下,業界似乎仍決心貫徹那句老生常談:「演出必須繼續!」 

在疫情即將邁入一週年之際,設計師們發揮創意展現韌性,舉辦了眾多非傳統時裝秀,其中包含實體與數位結合的混合型活動——這類形式很可能在未來幾季成為新常態。 

Louis Vuitton’s show was certainly a high point for the season. The world’s most valuable bags & leather goods brand was sans audience, but stuck with a traditional catwalk as they livestreamed from the Louvre in Paris. 

巴爾曼採取了截然不同——卻同樣戲劇性——的策略。品牌把握新態勢契機,以電影形式呈現最新系列。場景自然壯觀獨特。 品牌團隊選在巴黎戴高樂機場的法國航空機庫取景,將停泊飛機的機翼化作實質舞台。採用電影化手法的並非僅有巴爾曼,向來不吝奢華的Dior將凡爾賽宮作為影片拍攝場景。

本季時裝秀確實存在若干共通主題。玩樂精神與逃避現實的氛圍盡顯無遺,這無疑是對過去一年所受限制的回應,也呼應了我們所有人渴望外出尋歡的渴望。我們由衷感謝設計師們能分享這份明媚光彩,帶領我們遨遊絕美之地,讓我們暫時忘卻困守家中的現實。 

當然,時裝週不僅僅是服裝的舞台。許多絕美的包款為伸展台造型畫龍點睛。以下是我們最鍾愛的幾款,每款都令人迫不及待想入手。為數據! 

Louis Vuitton 

如我們所見Louis Vuitton 在巴黎盧浮宮那座詭異空蕩的展廳裡Louis Vuitton 無觀眾時裝秀。模特們伴著達夫朋克的音樂,悠然漫步於米開朗基羅展廳與達魯展廳之間。本系列從古希臘汲取靈感,以米蘭著名室內裝潢與裝飾藝術品牌福納塞蒂的插畫點綴設計。 

Chanel

Fast forwarding a couple thousand years, Chanel’s production harkened back to the Parisian club scene of the 1970s. The collection itself was influenced by the label’s muse Stella Tennant, with “ski spirit” and even their own fall 1994 collection as inspiration. In lieu of the big spectacles at Paris’ Grand Palais for which the label is known, Chanel Creative Director Virginie Viard went for a different vibe this year.  “I wanted to show in a small place, a club. I don’t like big rave venues;” she said. “I prefer that kind of place that is more intimate.”

克里斯汀Dior

Dior 瑪麗亞·葛拉齊亞·基亞里將時裝秀選址於Palace 富麗堂皇(雖不至於浮誇)的鏡廳。在如此背景與諸多童話元素的呼應下,這場秀以極具象徵性的方式映照出虛榮的危險。基亞里旨在凸顯外表與內在的永恆博弈,她將此歸因於當今盛行的數位自戀現象。

Hermès

Like Louis Vuitton, the Hermès show was streamed live, but in what is most definitely a first, the show was presented from three different continents. First was a dance sequence, shot in New York City. The show then cut to the runway in Paris before closing with another dance piece, this time half a world away in Shanghai. Creative Director Vanhee-Cybulski’s said of her collection, “The message to the world is that I have this conviction of designing clothes for a confident woman. It was about resilience.”

Prada

面對疫情對時尚產業的巨大衝擊,米烏奇亞Prada 拉夫·西蒙斯聯手打造的系列作品,既以舒適自在與流動感為核心特質,同時仍展現品牌經典的優雅風範與迷人魅力。 

所有照片版權均歸《Vogue》所有 

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