尽管观众寥寥无几,日程安排也与时装周惯例大相径庭,时尚界似乎仍决心践行那句老生常谈的箴言:"演出必须继续!"
在疫情即将迎来一周年之际,设计师们充分发挥创造力,展现出非凡韧性,举办了众多非传统时装秀,其中包括实体与数字相结合的混合型活动——这类形式很可能在未来几个季度成为行业新常态。
Louis Vuitton’s show was certainly a high point for the season. The world’s most valuable bags & leather goods brand was sans audience, but stuck with a traditional catwalk as they livestreamed from the Louvre in Paris.
巴尔曼采取了截然不同却同样震撼的策略。该品牌抓住新常态的契机,以电影形式呈现最新系列。场景自然壮观而独特——品牌团队在巴黎戴高乐机场的法航机库内拍摄,将停泊飞机的机翼化作天然舞台。 品牌团队在巴黎戴高乐机场的法航机库取景,将停泊飞机的机翼化作天然舞台。采用电影化手法的品牌不止巴尔曼一家。向来不吝奢华Dior,则将凡尔赛宫选作影片拍摄地。
整个时装周确实呈现出一些共同主题。玩乐精神与逃避现实的倾向尽显无遗,这无疑是对过去一年种种限制的回应,也呼应了我们所有人渴望外出寻欢的共同需求。我们由衷感谢设计师们能传递这份明媚,带领我们遨游美丽之地,让我们暂时忘却被困家中的现实。
当然,时装周不仅关乎服装。众多惊艳手袋为T台造型锦上添花。以下是我们最爱的几款,每款都令人迫不及待想拥有。數據来袭!
Louis Vuitton
正如我们所见Louis Vuitton 在巴黎卢浮宫那座诡异空荡的展馆里Louis Vuitton 无人观展的时装秀。模特们伴着达夫朋克的音乐,悠然穿行于米开朗基罗画廊与达鲁画廊的瑰丽空间。本季系列汲取古希腊艺术精髓,以米兰著名室内装饰品牌福纳塞蒂的经典图案为点睛之笔,呈现出璀璨夺目的设计。
Chanel
Fast forwarding a couple thousand years, Chanel’s production harkened back to the Parisian club scene of the 1970s. The collection itself was influenced by the label’s muse Stella Tennant, with “ski spirit” and even their own fall 1994 collection as inspiration. In lieu of the big spectacles at Paris’ Grand Palais for which the label is known, Chanel Creative Director Virginie Viard went for a different vibe this year. “I wanted to show in a small place, a club. I don’t like big rave venues;” she said. “I prefer that kind of place that is more intimate.”
克里斯汀Dior
Dior 玛丽亚·格拉齐亚·基乌里将秀场选址于Palace 华丽(却不浮夸)的镜厅。以这般背景为依托,辅以诸多童话元素的呼应,这场时装秀可谓直观地映照出虚荣的危险。基乌里旨在凸显外表与品格间的持续博弈——她将这场斗争归因于当今社会泛滥的数字自恋现象。
Hermès
Like Louis Vuitton, the Hermès show was streamed live, but in what is most definitely a first, the show was presented from three different continents. First was a dance sequence, shot in New York City. The show then cut to the runway in Paris before closing with another dance piece, this time half a world away in Shanghai. Creative Director Vanhee-Cybulski’s said of her collection, “The message to the world is that I have this conviction of designing clothes for a confident woman. It was about resilience.”
Prada
面对疫情对时尚界造成的巨大冲击,缪琪亚Prada 拉夫·西蒙斯联袂呈现了一场以轻松自在与灵动飘逸为特质的系列,同时依然彰显着品牌经典的优雅与魅力。
所有照片均由《Vogue》提供